I used to think I knew coffee. Then I moved to Panama.The Chiriqui province of Panama is home to some of the world's finest specialty coffee producers. Tourists flock to Boquete to take coffee tours and visit farms high in the mountains, where coffee trees grow best.
Coffee cherries grow on bushy trees that farmers keep pruned to about 5-7 feet. Some of the fincas (farms) have coffee trees planted on such steep slopes that only indigenous natives are able to harvest the cherries, which must be picked by hand when the color is just right. And, not all coffee cherries ripen at the same time, so harvesting must be done over and over.
So, there's a lot of work that goes into making the perfect cup of coffee.
Enthusiasts will enjoy Higher Grounds, an entertaining look at the history of coffee and how Panama became a major player. One of the stars of the video is Wilford Lamastus, founder of the Lamastus Family Estates high in the mountains above Boquete. The Lamastus Elida Estate has set auction records for its Geisha variety of coffee.
Even before moving to Boquete, David and I spent a long weekend touring both the Elida and nearby Lérida coffee plantations. First we learned about the optimal altitude, volcanic soil, sun, ocean winds, and rainfall necessary to grow premier coffee cherries.
Most surprising to us as novices, we learned that it's the drying process that creates the most flavor in coffee. The beans can be dried with their skins on (natural), or dried with their skins removed but still sticky (honey), or dried with their skins removed and cleaned (washed).
Only after the beans are dried outside in the sun are they roasted at a precise temperature.
In so many ways, coffee is like wine. There are as many different kinds of coffee cherries as there are grapes. Among the most popular varietals in the Chiriqui region are Catuai, Pacamara and Geisha.
After touring the facilities, we took part in a very scientific looking process called a cupping. About eight small bowls were set out each containing coffee beans, labeled by type and how it was dried (for example, Catuai washed).
First we smelled the ground beans, then hot water was added and we loudly slurped each bowl with a spoon to compare the different tastes. There is even a coffee tasting guide that allows experts to judge the quality of coffee and assign a number.
In short, specialty coffee is a big business and Panama is right up there with the world's top producers. Since our tours, we've taken coffee a lot more seriously.
When friends ask about my favorite coffee, there is absolutely no one answer. First thing in the morning, we brew a pot of ground 1820 coffee from a pound bag that costs about $7 at the grocery store. In the afternoons, we might go to Buckle Tip for a pour over of the daily special. Or, we might go to one of the many local shops like Kotowa or Café Unido for a cappuccino.
Adding creamer, steamed milk, syrups and other additives to coffee is, well, up for debate. As a general rule, if it's an expensive pour over, I never add anything. But, I add a flavored creamer to my morning coffee, and love cappuccinos (espresso with foamed milk) with a passion.
Life is short. Drink coffee the way you like it.
